Haring (Dutch herring)
Raw herring served with chopped onion and pickle, eaten by hand or in a soft bun (broodje haring). Season peaks in May-June (Hollandse Nieuwe). Best in Amsterdam at Stubbe's Haring (Singel 250, since 1913, $4.50) or Frens Haringhandel at Koningsplein. Skip anything at Dam Square. In Volendam, try Frank's Smokehouse for smoked variants.
Bitterballen
Deep-fried beef ragout balls served with mustard. Bar snack, not a meal. Café de Reiger in the Jordaan does classic version ($8 for 8). De Ballenbar at Foodhallen does fancy variants with lobster or truffle ($12). Locals eat these with a beer around 17:00 — the borrel hour.
Stamppot
Winter dish — mashed potato with kale (boerenkool), sauerkraut (zuurkool) or endive (andijvie), served with smoked sausage and a well of gravy. Available October to April at brown cafes. Try Moeders on Rozengracht ($18) or Café Piet de Leeuw ($16) — both serve authentic versions in unpretentious rooms.
Stroopwafel
Thin waffle sandwich with caramel syrup center. Fresh, warm ones are the real thing — supermarket packs are fine for gifts but not the same. Van Wonderen at Kalverstraat 149 dips them in chocolate ($4.50). The best is Original Stroopwafels at Albert Cuyp market: $2.50 straight from the iron.
Questions answered
How do you eat herring properly?
Grab it by the tail, dip in onions, tilt your head back and lower it into your mouth. Or ask for a broodje (in a bun) if that's too much.
When is herring season?
Hollandse Nieuwe (new-catch) starts around mid-June. It's available year-round but peak quality is June-August.
What's the difference between poffertjes and pancakes?
Poffertjes are small, puffy mini pancakes served with butter and powdered sugar. Pannenkoeken are large thin ones, sweet or savory.
Is stamppot only a winter dish?
Traditionally yes, October through April. Some brown cafes serve it year-round.
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