Noord-Holland is a narrow province between two seas, which makes travel here simple: you can cycle from the North Sea to the IJsselmeer in a morning, and most places are within half an hour of each other by train. This guide covers Amsterdam, Haarlem and how to combine them without losing half days to transport.
The capital is the most expensive hotel city in the country, and also the one where the gap between a good and a bad booking is widest. The same room on the same canal costs a hundred euros in February and three hundred in May.
Amsterdam
The capital is the most expensive hotel city in the country, and also the one where the gap between a good and a bad booking is widest. The same room on the same canal costs a hundred euros in February and three hundred in May.
• The canal ring between Brouwersgracht and Amstel, a UNESCO world heritage site
• The Jordaan, with its hidden courtyards, brown cafés and the Noordermarkt market
• Museumplein: the Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh Museum and Stedelijk within three hundred metres
• Amsterdam-Noord and the NDSM shipyard, reached by free ferry
Fifteen minutes by train from Schiphol to Centraal. In town you walk or cycle; the tram is rarely faster than walking inside the canal ring.
Haarlem
Everything Amsterdam has, thirty percent cheaper and fifteen train minutes away. A medieval market square, almshouse courtyards behind unremarkable doors, and Bloemendaal beach ten kilometres out.
• The Grote or St Bavo church with the Müller organ Mozart played
• The Frans Hals Museum in a seventeenth-century almshouse
• Teylers Museum, the oldest museum in the country, still lit by daylight
• The hofjes: nearly twenty hidden courtyards, free to enter
Fifteen minutes by local train from Amsterdam Centraal, four an hour. Bus 81 reaches Zandvoort and Bloemendaal beach in twenty minutes.
Where to stay
• Haarlemmerbuurt and Westerdok: canal houses on the edge of the centre, thirty euros below Herengracht rates
• Amsterdam-Noord: the biggest price breaker, with a free ferry that runs all night
• De Pijp and Oost: boutique hotels among residents, ten tram minutes from the centre
For a high-season weekend, book two to three months ahead; midweek in low season, hotels dump their last rooms seven to ten days out. Being flexible on dates saves more in Noord-Holland than being flexible on stars.
What it costs
Expect 12.5 percent tourist tax plus a fixed amount per person per night — the highest rate in Europe. Always compare the total, not the room rate.
Always compare the total including tourist tax, not the room rate. Municipalities here charge between four and twelve and a half percent, sometimes plus a fixed amount per person per night, and many booking sites only show it on the final screen.
Practicalities
The train is the spine of the province: four to eight an hour between the main towns, and a day return rarely costs more than a tank of fuel. Buy an anonymous OV-chipkaart or tap in with a bank card — that now works at nearly every gate.
Build the bicycle into your plan. Almost every station in the province has a rental point, the landscape is flat and the cycle paths are separated from traffic. On most day trips the bike beats the bus and costs far less than a car plus parking.
North Sea weather turns faster than the forecast. Bring a windproof layer even in July; a morning that promises beach weather can rain sideways by two and clear again by five.
Crowds and timing
Crowding in Amsterdam is predictable and therefore avoidable. Between eleven in the morning and four in the afternoon the best-known spots are full; outside those hours they are quiet. That gap matters more than the gap between high and low season: a Saturday in October at half past ten feels busier than a Tuesday in July at half past eight. Turn the day around — start early, spend the middle of the day eating or walking outside the centre, and come back after four — and you see the same place at a completely different tempo, and pay less for food and entry while you are at it.
Money and paying
The Netherlands is largely cashless. Nearly everywhere takes a debit card or phone, and a growing number of places refuse cash outright. Credit cards are still not universally accepted in supermarkets and small shops — expect Maestro or V Pay. Tipping is not obligatory; five to ten percent for good service is normal and rounding up is enough. Tourist tax is nearly always charged separately at check-out, even when you have prepaid.
Without a car
This province is built for trains, buses, ferries and bikes. Nearly every place in this guide is reachable by public transport, usually in under an hour from Amsterdam Centraal, and the ferries across the IJ and the North Sea Canal are free. A day pass on the regional buses costs less than a day of parking in a historic centre. With three or four people a car can work out cheaper — in that case leave it at the edge of town and switch to a tram or train.
Travelling with children
Children up to eleven travel by train for a couple of euros a day on a Railrunner ticket, and small children ride free on a bike. Nearly every museum in the province has a children’s route, and most beaches have a pavilion with a playground. The real constraint is not supply but pace: plan two activities a day rather than four, and put the journey home before dinner rather than after.
Mistakes visitors make
Three classics. First: too many places in one day, so you mostly see trains and car parks. Second: planning everything around midday, exactly when everywhere is busiest and dearest. Third: driving into a historic centre where parking costs seven euros an hour while the station is a ten-minute walk away. Choose one place a day, start early and leave the car, and you keep both time and money for the part you actually came for.
Stay or go back
Most visitors do Amsterdam as a day trip from Amsterdam and so miss the two hours that make it worthwhile. Do the arithmetic: two return train tickets plus dinner in the capital quickly costs more than an off-season double room here, breakfast included. Staying also gets you the morning light, which in this province — low, wide, across water — is the main reason to be here at all.
Questions answered
When is the best time to visit Amsterdam?
Late January, February and the weeks before advent are cheapest. Avoid King’s Day, Sail, Amsterdam Dance Event and big RAI conferences.
What does a night in Amsterdam cost?
Expect 12.5 percent tourist tax plus a fixed amount per person per night — the highest rate in Europe. Always compare the total, not the room rate.
How do you get to Amsterdam?
Fifteen minutes by train from Schiphol to Centraal. In town you walk or cycle; the tram is rarely faster than walking inside the canal ring.
Is one day enough for Amsterdam?
For a first visit, yes, as long as you start early and skip one thing. Stay the night and you gain the two hours after five — the quietest and best part of the day, and exactly what day visitors leave too early to see.
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