Hiking the Trekvogelpad: crossing North Holland’s wetlands on foot

What the trail is

The Trekvogelpad runs from Bergen aan Zee to Enschede and, in Noord-Holland, follows the migration route of birds along wetlands.

The best-preserved star fortress in Europe, with double moats and six bastions forming a perfect star from the air. Inside the walls three thousand people live in a town three streets wide.

The stages here

The Noord-Holland stages cross Kennemerland, Waterland and Het Gooi. Each is fifteen to twenty kilometres and ends at a station.

• The ramparts, walkable in an hour

• The Dutch Fortress Museum in the Turfpoort bastion

• The Grote Kerk with painted vaults from 1518

• The Comenius museum and mausoleum

What you see

Godwits, lapwings and spoonbills in the breeding season, geese in winter, and a landscape almost entirely made by hand.

Once called the cleanest village in Europe, with pastel timber houses around a small lake. Ten minutes by bus from Amsterdam-Noord and immediately, completely quiet.

Underfoot

Mostly grass and shell paths with occasional asphalt. After rain the peat meadows are boggy; waterproof shoes are not optional.

Practicalities

Every stage starts and ends on public transport. Sleep in Naarden, Monnickendam or Amsterdam-Noord.

Where to stay

• Inside the fortress: a few unusual addresses in listed buildings

• Bussum: more choice, ten minutes’ walk

• Hilversum: cheaper, five train minutes

Sixty-four to a hundred euros inside the walls; Bussum and Hilversum sit ten to twenty below that.

Getting there

Train to Naarden-Bussum, twenty-five minutes from Amsterdam, then fifteen minutes on foot or five by bus.

When to come

April to October for the ramparts and the fort route. Easter for the Matthew Passion — book far ahead.

Crowds and timing

Crowding in Naarden is predictable and therefore avoidable. Between eleven in the morning and four in the afternoon the best-known spots are full; outside those hours they are quiet. That gap matters more than the gap between high and low season: a Saturday in October at half past ten feels busier than a Tuesday in July at half past eight. Turn the day around — start early, spend the middle of the day eating or walking outside the centre, and come back after four — and you see the same place at a completely different tempo, and pay less for food and entry while you are at it.

Money and paying

The Netherlands is largely cashless. Nearly everywhere takes a debit card or phone, and a growing number of places refuse cash outright. Credit cards are still not universally accepted in supermarkets and small shops — expect Maestro or V Pay. Tipping is not obligatory; five to ten percent for good service is normal and rounding up is enough. Tourist tax is nearly always charged separately at check-out, even when you have prepaid.

Without a car

This province is built for trains, buses, ferries and bikes. Nearly every place in this guide is reachable by public transport, usually in under an hour from Amsterdam Centraal, and the ferries across the IJ and the North Sea Canal are free. A day pass on the regional buses costs less than a day of parking in a historic centre. With three or four people a car can work out cheaper — in that case leave it at the edge of town and switch to a tram or train.

Travelling with children

Children up to eleven travel by train for a couple of euros a day on a Railrunner ticket, and small children ride free on a bike. Nearly every museum in the province has a children’s route, and most beaches have a pavilion with a playground. The real constraint is not supply but pace: plan two activities a day rather than four, and put the journey home before dinner rather than after.

Mistakes visitors make

Three classics. First: too many places in one day, so you mostly see trains and car parks. Second: planning everything around midday, exactly when everywhere is busiest and dearest. Third: driving into a historic centre where parking costs seven euros an hour while the station is a ten-minute walk away. Choose one place a day, start early and leave the car, and you keep both time and money for the part you actually came for.

Stay or go back

Most visitors do Naarden as a day trip from Amsterdam and so miss the two hours that make it worthwhile. Do the arithmetic: two return train tickets plus dinner in the capital quickly costs more than an off-season double room here, breakfast included. Staying also gets you the morning light, which in this province — low, wide, across water — is the main reason to be here at all.

Renting a bike

A bicycle costs ten to fifteen euros a day at a rental point and about half that at a hotel that keeps a few of its own. E-bikes run around thirty. Reserve ahead at weekends; around Naarden the rental points are empty by midday on a sunny Saturday. Two things to watch: take a bike with hand brakes if you are not used to back-pedal braking, and always lock it to something fixed, even in villages where that feels excessive.

Accessibility

New hotels and museums are nearly always wheelchair accessible; historic buildings rarely are. Canal houses and old fishermen’s cottages have steep, narrow stairs and no lift, and that includes many of the cheapest rooms. Ask explicitly when booking, even when a site says there is a lift — in a listed building it sometimes only starts at the second floor. Stations in Noord-Holland are mostly step-free; the ferries all are.

The best light

Photographers come here for two moments: the first hour after sunrise and the last before sunset. The flat landscape and the water give a soft, low light that lasts until half past nine in summer. In Naarden that means the busiest view of the day is a wall of people at three and completely empty at eight. Under cloud the opposite holds — façades and courtyards look their best, the beach its dullest.

Combining with the area

Noord-Holland is narrow: from the North Sea to the IJsselmeer is nowhere more than forty kilometres. So Naarden nearly always combines with a second destination without losing a day to travel. The rule of thumb is one town plus one landscape: a morning in a historic centre and an afternoon by the water or in the dunes. That works better than two towns in a row, because otherwise you see the same kind of street twice.