Assumburg and Marquette: the hidden castles of Heemskerk

Slot Assumburg

Fourteenth century, with four corner towers and a moat. In use as a hostel since 1933, so you can actually sleep in it.

Between the dunes and the IJmuiden steelworks lies a village with two castles and a beach within cycling distance. Cheap beds ten minutes from Beverwijk and twenty from Haarlem.

The French garden

The formal garden behind Assumburg was laid out in the eighteenth century and restored to the original plan: straight avenues, hedges and sightlines.

• Slot Assumburg, a fourteenth-century castle

• Kasteel Marquette and its park

• The dunes towards Castricum aan Zee

• The old village core around the Laurentius church

Kasteel Marquette

Older in origin but rebuilt in the nineteenth century. The surrounding park is free to enter and runs into the inner dune edge.

Combining with the dunes

From either castle it is twenty minutes by bike into the Noordhollands Duinreservaat, towards Castricum aan Zee or Wijk aan Zee.

Practicalities

Heemskerk has its own station, half an hour from Amsterdam. Rooms start around fifty-four euros, parking free.

Where to stay

• In the village: a few hotels and B&Bs from fifty-four euros

• Wijk aan Zee: beach hotels, slightly dearer

• Beverwijk: more choice, five minutes

Fifty-four to eighty euros with free parking — an attractive base for the coast.

Getting there

Local train from Amsterdam Centraal in about half an hour via Zaandam and Beverwijk.

When to come

April to September. In summer Wijk aan Zee is busy; Heemskerk itself is not.

Crowds and timing

Crowding in Heemskerk is predictable and therefore avoidable. Between eleven in the morning and four in the afternoon the best-known spots are full; outside those hours they are quiet. That gap matters more than the gap between high and low season: a Saturday in October at half past ten feels busier than a Tuesday in July at half past eight. Turn the day around — start early, spend the middle of the day eating or walking outside the centre, and come back after four — and you see the same place at a completely different tempo, and pay less for food and entry while you are at it.

Money and paying

The Netherlands is largely cashless. Nearly everywhere takes a debit card or phone, and a growing number of places refuse cash outright. Credit cards are still not universally accepted in supermarkets and small shops — expect Maestro or V Pay. Tipping is not obligatory; five to ten percent for good service is normal and rounding up is enough. Tourist tax is nearly always charged separately at check-out, even when you have prepaid.

Without a car

This province is built for trains, buses, ferries and bikes. Nearly every place in this guide is reachable by public transport, usually in under an hour from Amsterdam Centraal, and the ferries across the IJ and the North Sea Canal are free. A day pass on the regional buses costs less than a day of parking in a historic centre. With three or four people a car can work out cheaper — in that case leave it at the edge of town and switch to a tram or train.

Travelling with children

Children up to eleven travel by train for a couple of euros a day on a Railrunner ticket, and small children ride free on a bike. Nearly every museum in the province has a children’s route, and most beaches have a pavilion with a playground. The real constraint is not supply but pace: plan two activities a day rather than four, and put the journey home before dinner rather than after.

Mistakes visitors make

Three classics. First: too many places in one day, so you mostly see trains and car parks. Second: planning everything around midday, exactly when everywhere is busiest and dearest. Third: driving into a historic centre where parking costs seven euros an hour while the station is a ten-minute walk away. Choose one place a day, start early and leave the car, and you keep both time and money for the part you actually came for.

Stay or go back

Most visitors do Heemskerk as a day trip from Amsterdam and so miss the two hours that make it worthwhile. Do the arithmetic: two return train tickets plus dinner in the capital quickly costs more than an off-season double room here, breakfast included. Staying also gets you the morning light, which in this province — low, wide, across water — is the main reason to be here at all.

Renting a bike

A bicycle costs ten to fifteen euros a day at a rental point and about half that at a hotel that keeps a few of its own. E-bikes run around thirty. Reserve ahead at weekends; around Heemskerk the rental points are empty by midday on a sunny Saturday. Two things to watch: take a bike with hand brakes if you are not used to back-pedal braking, and always lock it to something fixed, even in villages where that feels excessive.

Accessibility

New hotels and museums are nearly always wheelchair accessible; historic buildings rarely are. Canal houses and old fishermen’s cottages have steep, narrow stairs and no lift, and that includes many of the cheapest rooms. Ask explicitly when booking, even when a site says there is a lift — in a listed building it sometimes only starts at the second floor. Stations in Noord-Holland are mostly step-free; the ferries all are.

The best light

Photographers come here for two moments: the first hour after sunrise and the last before sunset. The flat landscape and the water give a soft, low light that lasts until half past nine in summer. In Heemskerk that means the busiest view of the day is a wall of people at three and completely empty at eight. Under cloud the opposite holds — façades and courtyards look their best, the beach its dullest.

Combining with the area

Noord-Holland is narrow: from the North Sea to the IJsselmeer is nowhere more than forty kilometres. So Heemskerk nearly always combines with a second destination without losing a day to travel. The rule of thumb is one town plus one landscape: a morning in a historic centre and an afternoon by the water or in the dunes. That works better than two towns in a row, because otherwise you see the same kind of street twice.