The cheese market question
Alkmaar's famous cheese market runs Friday mornings 10am to 1pm, April through late September. It's a 40-minute costumed reenactment on Waagplein — cheese porters in white with colored hats. Show up by 9:15am to see anything; by 10am the square is 8-deep and you’ll see nothing. Verdict: worth it once. Not worth planning a whole trip around.
The rest of Alkmaar
The old center is genuinely lovely — canals, the Grote Kerk, the Beatles Museum (yes, really, and it's charming), and a compact restaurant scene. Stay at Hotel Stad en Land ($120) or the boutique De Nachtwacht ($155). Use Alkmaar as a base for Bergen (5km, artist village), Egmond aan Zee (10km, beach), and the Schermer polders.
Worth it or not?
As a day trip from Amsterdam: yes, cheese market Fridays only. As a base for exploring West-Friesland and the coast: excellent, 2-3 nights. As a destination in itself: 24 hours is plenty.
Questions answered
Is the cheese market free?
Yes, the market itself is free. The Cheese Museum next door costs $6.
How do I get to Alkmaar from Amsterdam?
Direct train from Centraal, 35-40 minutes, four per hour, $10 one-way. Trains get busy on cheese-market Fridays.
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